AGATTI
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More than 300 years ago, a band of Moplah (Kerala Muslim) fishermen and traders settled in the Lakswadeep islands. Long called “The Indian Maldives” the Lakswadeep chain – five islands, 40,000 people – has retained much of its culture and charm. |
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In May, I travelled Bangalore to Agatti island, the only island with an airport.
The frontier-style airport is part Checkpoint Charlie part Guilligan’s Island. I was amazed by the pristine waters and idyllic villages, but most dazzled by the gentle nature of the graceful islanders.
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Local fishing boats ply between the islands. It’s easy to hitch a ride but one needs to report to the authorities (other more comfortable boats are available too). ▼ |
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Children have a blessed life on the island, which is nearly all playground. They all have beautiful manners. ▼ |
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The Agatti Beach Hotel is a popular destination for honeymoon couples from the mainland. Canoodleing is tolerated within 500 feet of the high water mark. |
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▲ A trip around the island is a must: the coastal scenery is most picturesque, near the island the waters are calm and crystal clear. |
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| ▲This drawing depicts a dance ritual held in front of the old Agatti mosque’s fore-court after Ramadan prayers every year. It is a martial arts dance of the type also found in Bali (the old Bali) village of Tenganan in East Bali, and in the Muslim villages of West Lombok in Indonesia. The courtyard scene in this drawing has a remarkably South East Asian feeling, in the setting and the atmosphere portrayed. |
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All the local signage is funky. The local architecture is wildly coloured, with coastal / boat colour. ▼ |
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The old mosque is itself an intriguing mix of styles. The exterior is Oriental-Moorish – a two tiered pavilion of the wantilan variety found in the ancient villages of Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Java and Bali but the interior columns are distinctly Tamil Nadu Hindu! Perhaps a gift from a visiting maharaja? ▼ |
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▲ Even the goats are gracious on Agatti. These two are shooting the morning coastal breeze outside their owner’s home. |
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▲ Agatti women wear all their jewels all of the time it seems. |
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Getting around the island is easy. Auto rickshaws and bikes are available. The one paved road is in good condition and covers the length and breadth of the land. |
Pushbike is the favoured means of transport across the small (2 mile long) island. Shirts are optional for the men-folk. ▼ |
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The front verandah of the old mosque: four bread-fruit trees sit in the mosque’s fenced in garden compound. ▼ |
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The Kerala modern military-issue architecture of the Agatti Beach Hotel is a delight! Individual bungalows collect the coastal breezes. A.C. is optional. The South Indian food is fresh and fabulous. Service is strictly Soviet era. ▼ |
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▲ The local lads all have movie star good looks: in fact everyone on the island is gorgeous (must be the diet of fish and rice!). |
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▲ The traditional ladies costume of the Moplah Muslim populace (the island is 100% Muslim) is still worn in many quarters. It is a mix and Middle-Eastern, Portuguese and Malay (the Javanese (Madurese) style batik sarongs). |
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When to go
September to May is the best time to go. Both Indian and Kingfisher Airlines have flights via Kochi. There are only a few good hotels: Agatti Island Beach Resort, the Bangaram Island Resort (Casino Group), and Kadamat Beach Resort. Boo through a travel agent , as permission is still required to visit.
Made Wijaya is de nom de plume of celebrated Bali-based Australian writer and landscape designer Michael white
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