BALI THIS JUNE

Jero Dalem Kepaon, 18 June 1997

My balinese mum's trusted lady-in-waiting, Jero Padma, passed away unexpectedly three days ago. She was admired by all in the village for never having missed a day's temple duty in 60 years. I knew her as the lady lugging offerings in our family compound, always smiling, never complaining, and as the mother of our office's star artist, the saintly Gung Nik.

Jero Padma was from well outside the palace and her marriage to Gung Nik's father, a Royal Duke, would have raised a few eyebrows.

She chose to prove her worth by devoting herself, body and soul, to the temple duties (considerable) of her husband's family and for this she was honoured today with a royal cremation witnessed by Ngurah Manik Parasara, the Cokorda ( King ) of Pemecutan, Denpasar, heart - throb of the women's auxiliary.

Gung 'Nik and his mother's sekar spirit effigy held by his cousin, Ida Bagus Susila who officiated the ceremony.

Now, the Bongkasa cremation was very grand and solemn - 'the good prince' had passed away some months before and a the grief was less tangible, the show of respect immense. The Kepaon cremation, a small show, with a carved banana trunk bull sarcophagus - the deceased's eternal smile still fresh in everyone's mind - had tear- jerker potential.

Jero Padma's mortal remains being collected by her chums.

So pure and noble were the arrangements and stunned the banjar community that the ceremonies proceeded with an air of " tripping the light fantastic": the an-Indonesian spirit of SUKA-DUKA, SHARING THE GOOD TIMES WITH THE BAD, was abundant as Jero's chums dug their hands deep into the silver swishing tray of still warm bone bits.

Farewell my Lovely....... we are all richer for having known -you.

Jero Padma's grand-daughter carries the sekar spirit effigy to the cremation grounds.

Ida Bagus Surya with the Manuk Dewata bird of paradise and the 'one way ticket' T-shirt

Cokorda Pemecutan (right) and I Gusti Made Oka, Prince of Kepaon.

Farewell my lovely..... we are all richer for having known you.

This month the Stranger looks at the Balinese tradition, now prevalent in the palaces, for taking european wives:

....... the Balinese culture is sustained - nay - the Balinese thrive on these palace mega-events where high style, logistic prowess and feudal fervor are doled out in equally generous portions ...............

Little Agung is dead, murdered in a village mêlée on Christmas Eve. The December pin-up boy who never made it to the end of his month, was to be married on January 1, now the date for his cremation.

What a relief to have Bali back to the gentle pace of yesteryear. No megaprojects pounding the earth, the world's tallest Garuda is on hold and the dredge at Turtle Island has been turned off.

Royal Cremation for Jero Bongkasa, May 1997
The full-scale royal cremation of the Prince of Bongkasa, I Gusti Agung Gede Oka, on the 18th of May, 1997, was a magnificent affair. Family in white, guests in black, and battallions of war veterans in the peacock colours of their regiments.

R.I.P for K'tut Tantri, August 1997
Ketut Tantri, a Scottish-born American woman, and the author of Revolt in Paradise, was Bali's most notorious Stranger.

Sakenan Festival on Turtle Island in the Age of Development, September 1997
The Pura Sakenan temple festival has always been a main event on South Bali's religious calender. For the pious it is an important pilgrimage : for teenagers it is a dating place par excellence (above the din of screaming priests one could always discern a gentle rub.....